Wednesday, January 20, 2010

HOW TO MOUNT A HORSE

HOW TO MOUNT A HOR S3
Once you’ve checked your girth and fashioned your helmet chinstrap, you are ready to mount.
Steps
1. ALWAYS check your horse’s girth just before mounting, no matter who saddled the horse. It should be very snug—two fingers should fit between the girth and the horse’s side. Less is too tight, more is too loose. If it’s too lose your weight could pull the saddle to one side when you mount, and the horse could be startled, but if it’s too tight, some skin could get caught and it could be uncomfortable.
2. Stand on the horse’s left side, preferably on a mounting block as to not put strain on your horse’s back.
3. Take the reins in your left hand and gather them up so the horse doesn’t move away. If you have a tighter rein on the off side, or in this case the right, rein if the horse should move he will be more likely to move into you than away from you, giving you a little more control for mounting. Rest your left hand on the horse’s neck or also grab some mane in your left hand along with the reins.
4. If this is your first time, or if you feel uncertain, placed your right hand towards the rear of the saddle. Keep in mind your safety, by placing your right hand toward the rear of the saddle you will have to move it to allow your right leg to swing over the saddle. It is much safer to always hold the front of the saddle on the right side of it with your right hand. If you need more leverage than with your right hand on the pommel (the front of the saddle), you can try placing it a bit farther back on the saddle. Just keep in mind that you are a bit more vulnerable because you will have to let go with it to move it out of the way for your leg to swing over.
5. Place your left foot into the stirrup. Bounce once or twice on the ball of your foot that is still on the mounting block, this will give you enough momentum to bounce and spring up into the saddle.
6. Swing your right leg up and over the saddle, making sure your right leg clears the horse’s back. Sit down as lightly as you can—don’t just thump down hard. It is much kinder to their back to not thump down like a lump, just as it is much kinder to use a mounting block than mount from the ground, but they should not start or spook if you do. If a horse moves off because it is startled, or seeming spooked, by you thumping down hard when mounting you should consider whether this is a temperament, training issue or a possible pain issue from an ill fitting saddle. The latter of which can cause instant bucking, another reason to not drop down like a lump! Don’t disregard this step.
7. You should now be seated in the saddle.
8. Be sure to place your right foot into the stirrup, preferably without poking the horse too much with your toe in the process.
Adjust your reins, be sure you are ready and then ask the horse to move off.
Tips
After putting the saddle on your horse, walk them around a little before you attempt to mount them, and then retighten the girth/cinch. Some novice horses will bloat (take a deep breath) so that the girth/cinch will be loose. Walking a horse will force them to let the air out.
If you are inexperienced or your horse tends to walk off as soon as you put a foot in the stirrup, have another rider hold the horse’s reins for you. This will help keep the horse still while you mount.
If your horse starts to move, give the command of “Whoa” in a deep, calm voice.
If the horse constantly evades being mounted, break down each step and praise the horse when they stand still. (Start on the ground, then each step of the mounting block, touching the saddle, putting your foot in the stirrup, jumping up and finally getting all the way on). A well trained horse should stand for being mounted and wait for your command to walk off.
If you’re short, consider using a mounting block or other sturdy object—buckets and crates are often not sturdy enough.
Have an experienced rider or instructor watching you if you are an inexperienced rider; never ride alone, have someone watch you and work on ground work in case you fall.
In order to keep the horse from turning around and biting you, if that is a problem for your horse, pull the reins over towards you so that there isn’t enough slack on the other side for the horse to move its head all the way over.
Be careful when mounting a frisky or green-broke horse, or a stallion. If this is the situation, you can always have another person with you to help.
Always remember your equine common sense whenever handling a horse.
Warnings
ALWAYS check your girth!
Remember to wear boots with a heel and an ASTM/SEI certified helmet when riding.
Some horses are very sensitive, after you swing over you may want to stay standing in the stirrups, or in two-point for a second.

Friday, January 15, 2010

HOW TO JOIN UP WITH A HORSE

HOW TO JOIN UP WITH A HORSE
Some horses just won’t quit avoiding you and asserting themselves. They don’t trust you. You don’t trust them. They are scared and so are you. How can you help create a bond without spending millions of dollars or fancy training stuff and spending years just trying to avoid getting bitten while putting on a saddle? Or maybe you just want to be closer with your horse/pony.
Joining up may be able to help you calm your friend and make life easier, as well as making being together less painful and less frustrating.
Steps
1. Calm down. Going into it with a nervous or angry attitude is not going to get you anywhere. Take a few deep breaths, and run your hands over the lunge line (Stroking the rope may imply that you are in a friendly attitude).
2. Show yourself and your horse that you are calm, confident body language (you should be erect, head up, shoulders back) and disposition first. The horse understands your good/bad attitude and tone and timber of your voice.
3. Bring your horse to an enclosed paddock or ring on a lunge line. When lunging, the lunge line stimulates the reins as a directional took as if you were riding.
4. Gently talk to the horse. He/she might be a little scared or confused. Lead him/her around the safe enclosed area you are working in for a few minutes, with some changes in direction to set yourself as “leader.”
5. Go to the centre of the area you are working in. Unclip the line (don’t use tied lines); step back from the horse; look the horse in the eye; adopt assertive body language squarely to the horse, and raise your hands if need be (represents “pawing the air”).
6. Encourage the horse to stay at a respectful distance from you in this training. The process of moving them away represents you as lead mare. You are trying to be actually mean like the stallion would be in a herd. The stallion expels challenges from the herd—opposite of joining up.
7. When the horse is moving away from you, throw the line out behind him/her (keep hold of the clip) to move the horse forward at a brisk trot.
8. After 5 or 6 circuits (if using a 50 foot diameter pen) change direction by blocking the horse using body language, but not actually getting in the way. After another 5 or 6 circuits change direction again, and start to coil the line and maybe drop eye contact down to the neck/shoulder.
9. Look for signs from the horse, such as making the circle smaller. The inside ear will be turned towards you. He/she may lick and chew, head lowering.
10. Continue to push the horse on, changing directions every five or six circuits, you will see the horse angle its head to you, which is a sign they are ready to negotiate their position according to what you want.
11. When the horse drops its head very close to the ground when near you, you can be sure you have won its respect. It now understands that you have told the horse: “I am not a predator. I am no threat to you”.
12. When you see these signs, drop eye contact completely, soften your body language by bringing the hand nearest the horse across your stomach with fingers closed, step a little in front of the horse turn your back but be alert (watch out) and take a couple of steps away from the horse. This will cause him/her to come to you slowly and “join up”.
13. Reward the horse with a rub between the eyes or a nice stroke on the neck. This is how they naturally groom each other or assure a lower status horse. They do not approach the lead mare unless she is very relaxed and not exerting her authority.
14. Now stand next to the horse on the left hand, or near side, facing forwards. Walk off and circle around the horse’s nose to the right, he/she will follow when you have established that you are the leader. Complete a small circle and reward the horse. Do this in both directions.
Tips
Light use of a whip is a good enforcement aid to establish that you are “in charge”, but is not good for join-up.
If you don’t have a line a lunge whip can be used but never touch the horse with it. The idea is to move it behind him/her to make them move.
Throwing a line behind the horse to step up the pace is okay but it does not hit the horse (obviously such tricks are not for use with a horse using blinders).
Instead of using fear with yourself—here you treat your horse with respect (calm and accepting) to get results. He/she will show you the same regard.
Only allow your equine to come in after he/she has shown the movements of accepting your presence by relaxing (licking lips, dropping head, etc).
Walking away a couple steps ahead of the horse puts the horse in position to choose to accept being a (willing) follower, and the horse joins you (not vice versa. Reward that behavior.
Warnings
This is a guideline. Horses are not robots that can be “fixed” each one is different with a personality. Respect that and don’t expect too much the first time. Your horse is trying its best to understand.
Horses can be unpredictable, always be aware of this for safety and for your sanity.
Stay close to places that are safe for you to get away to in case the horse runs or kicks at you. If it’s an outdoor arena, it’s a good idea to have a fence that you can quickly crawl under or jump over.
Never yell or get mad at your horse because you are not trying to be a stallion.
Always be patient with your horse and don’t always expect results instantly.
Don’t be too passive-aggressive. This can really scare your horse and the join up will be unsuccessful.
Never do join-up with more than one horse in the ring because they may be confused and may compete for position in the herd.
Never hit your horse that you are trying to get to volunteer to join up to you. You are supposed to be bonding and learning to gain trust of a horse and each other with you as leader—not mean and bossy.
PLEASE do try this if you do not have a clear idea of what and why you are doing it, as it would confuse the horse and put you in danger.
Things You’ll Need
Halter
Lunge line
Closed paddock or ring
The “safe” place to escape from an aggressive horse
Praise the horse with your tone of voice

Monday, January 11, 2010

HOW TO CATCH A WILD HORSE

HOW TO CATCH A WILD HORSE
When it comes to catching a horse, wild or domestic, you will have a far better of chance of catching the animal if you act and think like a wild horse. By acting and thinking the way of a wild horse, you mimic its body language to communicate with it, giving the horse a better understanding of what you are trying to say.
Steps
1. Be calm and collected. Horses are sensitive to feelings of humans, and if they sense that you are scared or nervous, they will become the same.
2. Walk slowly towards the horse, and avoid staring right into their eyes, because a predator will star a horse in the eye. Talk quietly and soothing and avoid making any sudden movement, which can scare the horse. If possible, walk sideways-this is a non-threatening posture.
3. When you get close enough to the horse, slowly, but firmly compliment the horse and them them all about their characteristics to make them feel more calm around you. Slowly inch your way to the horse! When you get close enough where you can pet, slowly put your hand out with the fingers together (do not put your hand out with your fingers spread out, for this can give the horse the impression that you are a wild animal!) and touch its neck. Pet its neck gently, walkin talking calmy and soothingly.
4. Let the horse smell your hand, so it can get to know you.
5. 5. When you have gotten to know the horse, slowly put a halter on its head while still talking to it gently.
Tips
Make an attempt to study a horse’s body language. This will allow you to understand how horses communicate with one another in the herd.
Old Native-trick if you have access to another horse, peel off the top layer of his chestnuts. These are the patches every horse has on the insides of its legs. Rub the chestnuts of your hands to transfer the smell to your skin. Be upwind of the horse on your approach and the smell of “horse” may help you get close enough to actually be able to touch the horse. Note—unless you know exactly how to safely get the horse “smell” without injuring the horse, don’t go peeling of any layers of anything.
Use natural horsemanship. The object of natural horsemanship is to make the horse trust you. If you reach for the horse’s head and he draws back, don’t force yourself on him. Remove your hand and wait a moment before trying again. Eventually, the horse will realize that you aren’t trying to hurt him, and he may let you halter him.
Warnings
Do not tempt the horse with any food. This can cause the other horses to become aggressive, which can provide a chance for you to become injured.
It is ok if you want to bring another person along, for safety and help, but avoid bringing a lot of people. This can scare the horse and will provoke it to run away.
Wild horse are like deer, they get frightened easily, regardless of what it is.
Do not approach the horse from behind or directly in front.
Wild horses are just that, wild. Unless you actually own this horse, do not attempt to capture it.
Know where private lands are.
Horses are very strong. They normally weigh over a thousand pounds. Horses can kill you with one kick, and one misstep on your part can get you trampled. Be very very cautious!
Horses’ legs are very fragile, therefore, it’s greatly advised to avoid harming their legs or creating a situation where they can cause harm to their extremities, e.g. making a sudden movement and the horse steps into a gopher hole.
Wild horses are VERY aggressive and you might regret some things you do.
Foals may be cute and cuddly, but maintain a safe distance from them. Stallions will protect their offspring at all costs and will not hesitate to resort to lethal methods.
Things You’ll Need
Halter and rope
Patience-and lots of it!

HOW TO CATCH A WILD HORSE

Thursday, January 7, 2010

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR HORSE

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR HORSE

Horses require a lot of care and attention. This guide will help you learn how to care for a horse by giving simple steps to keeping a horse happy and healthy!

Steps

1. Every day that you go out to ride your horse they need to be groomed. First check them over from head to toe to make sure they have no swellings or cuts, a little scrape is fine along as it is not too deep or big.

2. When you are done checking him or her over starting your grooming routine. They will need to be curried, have their mane and tail brushed, have their hooves picked, and they need to be brushed with a soft brush and than a hard one.

3. Next comes the saddle and bridle. First get your needed tack, then put the saddle pad on your horse. Next comes the saddle. Tighten the girth and check to make sure the saddle fits. Then put the reins over your horse’s head and put the bit in their mouth. If they toss their head up either get an older taller person to help you or place your hand over their forehead then bridle them. Check all the straps and lead them to your riding area.

4. Next check the girth again, some horses like to puff out when you put the girth on. Roll down the stirrups, both of the stirrups (individually) should be as long as your arm. Mount your horse!

5. Exercise is important it is how horses stay in shape. Ride your horse for no more than two hours but only ride that long if you give your horse drinks and plenty of breaks. Don’t ride in the arena all the time or your horse may become ring sour meaning they will never co-operate with you in the arena.

6. Then take the tack off them and give them a drink. Never let them drink too much or they can become sickly. If they are still wet consider hosing them off if it is above 52 degrees Fahrenheit. If you do hose them off use a sweat scraper to get rid of the excess water. If your horse is afraid of the hose use a wet sponge to rinse them off. They will most likely roll. That’s ok, it’s normal!

7. Their stalls will also need to be tended to. Use shavings, straw, or what works best for you. Get a pitchfork and a bucket and empty all the manure into the bucket. Get the wet spots also. Make sure you get all of the wet spots as they can smell terrible! But your horse doesn’t need a stall to survive, they live just fine in the pasture!

8. Check that your horse has fresh water and their water bucket is clean. Feed them as necessary. Talk to the previous owner(s) about how much you feed them, what you feed them, and how often. Try to keep their diet as simple as possible (remember, all wild horses have is grass!), stuff like grass hay and clean oats is good for them and can reduce the chance of colic. Make sure it has a good sized field for them to go eat grass.

http://www.wikihow.com/index.php?title=Take-Care-Of-Your-Horse&...